All Chef Must Train Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.

Brittany Robinson
Brittany Robinson

Elara is a passionate writer and digital storyteller with a focus on innovation and human experiences.